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Post by BrusKO on Apr 6, 2006 14:08:21 GMT 8
as promised, here is the Philippine Monkey   in what ways is this frame better than your Ti frame? is this lighter btw? |
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Post by 32by18 on Apr 6, 2006 14:47:32 GMT 8
Hi Brusko It's heavier, definitely, for a few reasons: 1) steel frame 2) bigger wheels - this runs 700c rims, and 2.1 tires (aka 29er) Rolls smoother though, will give more feedback once I get it dirty! (which is soon!) |
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Post by extraFunky on Apr 6, 2006 21:11:41 GMT 8
as promised, here is the Philippine Monkey I can't believe you flew to hongkong just to pick up the monkey  Can't they ship it to you? Mine's still waiting for some few shiny parts   |
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Post by wcoastbo on Apr 7, 2006 1:35:47 GMT 8
Very nice Agu! I'm jealous and need to get a rigid 29er myself. What size frame did you get & how's standover height with the big wheels? Is that another set up hydro rims brakes? You must be hoarding those or found a supplier for them. How about posting some closeups? details of... chain tugs & dropouts, mary bars, bent seattube, SS specific hub, ...
looking forward to the ride report vs your rigid 26".
Brusko - getting a SS specific frame makes sense for anyone that's made the commitment to riding without gears. The number 1 issue for me, i'm using a converted HT, is the need for a tensioner. It's nice having sliding/horizontal dropouts or an EBB. Also, my bike has derailleur cable slots that are not needed anymore... makes for a cleaner looking bike.
I'm sure 32by18 has other reasons also... like having the illness called "bicycle acquisition syndrome" ;D
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Post by joes on Apr 7, 2006 2:43:04 GMT 8
 here's my friends SS mongoose fireball DJ/Street setup. that's why i sometimes cringe when i see fireball's setup for XC. |
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Post by king on Apr 7, 2006 6:27:14 GMT 8
n = b + 1 n - number of bikes you need b - number of bikes you have Very nice Agu! I'm jealous and need to get a rigid 29er myself. What size frame did you get & how's standover height with the big wheels? Is that another set up hydro rims brakes? You must be hoarding those or found a supplier for them. How about posting some closeups? details of... chain tugs & dropouts, mary bars, bent seattube, SS specific hub, ... looking forward to the ride report vs your rigid 26". Brusko - getting a SS specific frame makes sense for anyone that's made the commitment to riding without gears. The number 1 issue for me, i'm using a converted HT, is the need for a tensioner. It's nice having sliding/horizontal dropouts or an EBB. Also, my bike has derailleur cable slots that are not needed anymore... makes for a cleaner looking bike. I'm sure 32by18 has other reasons also... like having the illness called "bicycle acquisition syndrome" ;D |
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Post by 32by18 on Apr 7, 2006 13:54:52 GMT 8
bwahahaha no no no as of now, the Monkey is the only bike I have (note "as of now" disclaimer). BXC: I was lucky to have a discounted ticket...and they don'st ship either. It's alright since I got to get a few more parts that I need hehe. Hmmm... I spy a Jones H-Bar on your ride hehe Bo: here are some close up pics...the red Maggies are from my old bike. S/O height is no problem, I am around 5'9" and there is some clearance for "junior" hehe. I didn't use an SS-hub, but I did put a nice Ringle on it, kinda noisy, but hub engagement is awesome. Here's the cockpit, I am still tweaking bar height, and may cut the steerer tube a bit more. Flipped the Mary's but found it too aggro, but it felt good on flat ground (may be different story on the ups and downs)  Had to use a Surly Tuggnut to secure the rear wheel. It would slip whenever I'd TRY to pop a wheelie. Speaking of which, it seems I would have to relearn/adjust some riding skills, due to the big wheels.  |
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Post by fattire on Apr 7, 2006 19:27:15 GMT 8
for a steel bike this is so light, should be less than or about 26 lbs.
it's got punk-rock-i-found-the-grain-i'm-going-against-it attitude written all over it, consider these:
-it's a steel bike
-it's rigid steel mtb
-it's a 29er
-track fork
-damned straight sweet SS!
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Post by wcoastbo on Apr 8, 2006 2:26:45 GMT 8
thanks for the closeups Agu. cool bottle opener, er I mean chain tugs. it looks a bit pristine, time to open some celebratory san migs with them ;D steel frame/fork, ti cog, carbon spacers, scandium stem, alum bars, you're representing every material ... did I leave out any? magnesium on the maguras? btw nice headset. I noticed that the skewer doesn't go through the nut due to the added width of the tugs. is there enough skewer in the threads? will it be ok to remove the washers? I wouldn't want you to be stranded due to a stripped nut. King, what's your opinion? you didn't change your gearing? here are some simple gear inch calculations I did. (appoximate, I didn't factor crank length or tire size). check sheldon brown's gear calculator for more accurate results. www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/26*(32/18) = 46.2 inches 29*(32/18) = 51.6 inches 26*(32/16) = 52.0 inches 29*(32/20) = 46.4 inches you're right, hills will be a bit tougher than your old SS. it will feel like riding 32x16 with 26" wheels. but, it's only 5.5 inches more distance per pedal stroke. can you feel the difference on flats? a bit less spinning? will you be buying 180mm cranks? |
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Post by king on Apr 8, 2006 14:32:03 GMT 8
yeah, agu you can probably take the washer off, or use a thinner one if you dont want to scratch up the surly tugnut. by the way, is there such a thing as a chain length calculator, or is there a formula? i know how to get gear inches, but i'd like to know whether certain chainring/cog combination will result in a chainlegth that doesnt need a tensioner (as near as possible to a half inch i guess). by the way, have you tried sheldon browns gain ratio? www.sheldonbrown.com/gain.html |
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Post by extraFunky on Apr 9, 2006 0:16:56 GMT 8
the "washer" is actually an adapter so you can use a quick release axle. it reduces the hole from 10mm to 6mm.
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Post by wcoastbo on Apr 9, 2006 14:14:55 GMT 8
i'd like to know whether certain chainring/cog combination will result in a chainlegth that doesnt need a tensioner (as near as possible to a half inch i guess). i found this calculator, but I couldn't make it work for known gear combinations I'm currently using on my frame. maybe user error, it's getting late. I'll try again another day. eehouse.org/fixin/fixmeup.php |
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Post by - Gregg - on Apr 12, 2006 3:42:47 GMT 8
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bmxdude
Lurker
the only thing i'm good at is riding this stupid bike........
Posts: 18
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Post by bmxdude on Apr 14, 2006 20:03:27 GMT 8
hi guys,
just asking. can a splined bmx crank fit into a splined euro bottom bracket for a mtb?
thanks in advance.
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Post by skarhed on Apr 15, 2006 1:09:30 GMT 8
Bmxdude! Yup! There are BMX BB's that are for Euro or Mountainbike BB shell's, Go to Decimal's or King's in Quiapo, They sell BMX Splined BB for Euro type BB shells! If I remmember they're priced at around 1,500? More or less. Also bring your BMX crank arm and axle (if you have a BB already) to see if they're compatible. Hope this helps.
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Post by skarhed on Apr 15, 2006 1:12:20 GMT 8
Agu! So ya finally got yer ride dirty last Sunday! Nice to run inta ya in Sta Rosy!
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Post by joes on Apr 15, 2006 11:36:38 GMT 8
single speeder na rin ako with a gear ratio of 40T:18T. heavy. pics to follow.
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Post by 32by18 on Apr 15, 2006 22:26:26 GMT 8
Ef - ya it was nice to bump into you guys (good thing not literally hehe). the bike rides great. you guys should've tried it out heard about your little incident - hope your hand is alright. heal soon so you can get back to biking! Bo - sorry, missed some of your questions. It's a 16" Karate Monkey. No problem with standover. I'm running my old 175mm cranks. As for the gearing, it's roughly a 10% gain on the 26er, and I was a bit concerned with that aspect, as well as the added weight. HOWEVER... I found the 29er, while slightly harder to get up to speed, keeps momentum better - and you know that momentum is a SSer's friend. Once you're chugging along, I somehow find it takes less effort to maintain speed. Kinda offsets the added gear inches. So far I've cleaned the same climbs I've done with the 26er...which immediately dispels the abovementioned concerns...traction is improved as well, but there are a lot more factors concering that (tire type, PSI, etc.) than just wheel size.  Still need to adapt to the geometry with regards to tight singletrack, railing corners and getting the front wheel up/catching air - a few more rides should see to that. Fire road/dirt road downhills are a blast. The heavier steel frame and big wheels give a measure of comfort and more importantly, stability. THe 26er was a bit skittish in rough sections, whereas the 29er just plows along nicely. Same thing with ruts, bumps and some drops...the larger tires make for a smoother transition...  That basically sums up my initial 29er singlespeed experience. If anyone has questions, feel free to ask me Happy Easter everyone! |
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bmxdude
Lurker
the only thing i'm good at is riding this stupid bike........
Posts: 18
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Post by bmxdude on Apr 16, 2006 14:46:49 GMT 8
thanks for the very informative reply to my inquiry
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Post by mountguitars on Apr 16, 2006 20:42:37 GMT 8
help! where do i get spacers/ washers for my crank if i'm gonna turn it into a SS crank? its a deore '03 crank. if i'm gonna take out the smallest and biggest chainring, i guess you know what'll happen. this is the only thing that's left that i need to get for my SS rig. thanks in advance.
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Post by jibber on Apr 17, 2006 11:39:19 GMT 8
help! where do i get spacers/ washers for my crank if i'm gonna turn it into a SS crank? its a deore '03 crank. if i'm gonna take out the smallest and biggest chainring, i guess you know what'll happen. this is the only thing that's left that i need to get for my SS rig. thanks in advance. I got my washers from Handyman at 15 pesos per 10pcs pack. I forgot the size though...willl check it later at home. |
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Post by mountguitars on Apr 17, 2006 17:19:02 GMT 8
help! where do i get spacers/ washers for my crank if i'm gonna turn it into a SS crank? its a deore '03 crank. if i'm gonna take out the smallest and biggest chainring, i guess you know what'll happen. this is the only thing that's left that i need to get for my SS rig. thanks in advance. I got my washers from Handyman at 15 pesos per 10pcs pack. I forgot the size though...willl check it later at home. wow, really? kindly post info asap. thanks in advance. hope to bike with you soon as well, hehe. also, how many pieces will i need? i don't actually know how many i need. i haven't actually disassembled the crank yet. |
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Post by jibber on Apr 17, 2006 21:31:03 GMT 8
I got my washers from Handyman at 15 pesos per 10pcs pack. I forgot the size though...willl check it later at home. wow, really? kindly post info asap. thanks in advance. hope to bike with you soon as well, hehe. also, how many pieces will i need? i don't actually know how many i need. i haven't actually disassembled the crank yet. Ok...the washers are 3/8" in size. I don't know if this will be applicable to deore cranks also 'coz I'm using Alivio...can't afford the D's ;D I used four washers...one for each bolt since Alivio has only four bolts to attach the chainring to the crank. I'll try to post a picture if I can figure out how Btw, you still have to cut a small portion off the washer so it will fit. |
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Post by jibber on Apr 17, 2006 21:58:05 GMT 8
I'm trying to post the pic of my crank...hope it works Take note of the washer...it's 3/8" and it is best to cut the washer just enough so the edge will rest against the crank's recess.  |
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Post by jibber on Apr 17, 2006 22:03:54 GMT 8
...and here's what's left of my dis-assembled 8 speed cogset...i used the 17 teeth cog...the black thingy is a 1" blue pvc union pipe painted black...  |
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Post by jibber on Apr 17, 2006 22:11:54 GMT 8
...and to minimize the cost (a lame excuse 'coz i don't have the funds for the tensioner  ) i used the RD as the tensioner...hope somebody has a tensioner lying somewhere (pa-arbor ;D )...the chain jumps from the chainring when i tried to do some jumps last sunday   |
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Post by jibber on Apr 17, 2006 22:16:54 GMT 8
...and here's The Jibber...total cost of SS conversion was 28 pesos ;D  |
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bmxdude
Lurker
the only thing i'm good at is riding this stupid bike........
Posts: 18
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Post by bmxdude on Apr 17, 2006 22:27:18 GMT 8
good evening to all,
is it necessary to have a tensioner for a SS setup? i have a haro disc ready hub. im just gonna put a bmx sprocket on it. thanks
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Post by wcoastbo on Apr 18, 2006 2:13:51 GMT 8
you can go tensionerless, if you're lucky and able to find the right gear combination that fits your frame. see my setup on page 2. I'm using 36x20 with a half-link. my chainstay length is 16 7/8 inches (my chain is slightly worn and a new chain is a little tight, a wornout chain is too long). also, my dropouts are slightly semi-vertical.
I've mentioned modifying your axle to be eccentric on another post, but this should be done with care so the axle is not destroyed. I'm guessing this method will also weaken the axle.
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Post by wcoastbo on Apr 18, 2006 2:32:56 GMT 8
jibber - dropping the chain is a problem when using a tensioner and a cog designed for shifting. try and find a cog with taller teeth. a shimano compatible bmx cog will keep the chain from falling off when you jump. king - do you have any leftover bmx cogs? another option is to use two old wornout cogs as an "anti-derail" guard. just grind off the teeth and add a thin spacer on each side of your cog so the chain doesn't rub on the guard. see post #22... forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=69863&highlight |
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Can't they ship it to you?
) i used the RD as the tensioner...hope somebody has a tensioner lying somewhere (pa-arbor ;D )...the chain jumps from the chainring when i tried to do some jumps last sunday 
