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Post by Patrick on Mar 2, 2007 20:38:30 GMT 8
lloyd, i suggest you put the tensioner in the "push up" position, with the roler pushing the chain up towards the chainstay. the chain will be tighter and will not come off the cog even on the rough stuff. what he said plus that kind of tensioner is suppose to push up
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soctrumbiker
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Posts: 243
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Post by soctrumbiker on Mar 3, 2007 11:59:49 GMT 8
Sirs, Update po sa SS project rig... at last, matapos na rin bukas . Here's the specs: frame: Vision Pursuit size 15 fork: SR Suntour XCR 100mm braking system: Shimano Deore 525 (hydraulic) crankset: Tracer 36T Bottom bracket: Attack Racing square tapered chain: Shimano 8 spd (IG-51) rear sprocket: Da bomb 9-1 converter (16T) rear tensionser: Da bomb handlebar: Amoeba scud (carbon fiber) stem: Amoeba scud (90mm)... xtreme series grips: Da bomb saddle: Generic seatpost: Ringle moby (easton tubing) pedals: Shimano PD- M424rims: Sumo Husky disc specific (32 holes for DH)... i'll just use this extra rims of mine to save money ... carbon copy of the Mavic DeeMax DH... same form & color... yellow. hubs: Formula 32 holes... black spokes & nips: Generic... black spokes & stainless nips tubes: Generic tires: Kenda Koyote... 1.95... front & rear specific I'll attach pics pag-ready na... @lyod nice bike, be very careful to the pedal.. madaling masira kasi.. how much is the vison frame.. rgds socs
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jacklero
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Post by jacklero on Mar 5, 2007 1:59:18 GMT 8
yup soctrumbiker is right my m424 popped a cap on the left foot side the other day and is nearing another uneventful one at the right. Apparently once you lose the plastic cap at the side the plastc cage starts to wiggle, though the pedal body (cleat mechanism) is not affected, the plastic moving around while pedalling is quite annoying. I think the one with a cleat and platform combination is better.
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lloyd
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Post by lloyd on Mar 5, 2007 9:09:00 GMT 8
Sir Patrick,
Had re-tried to install the tensioner in a push up position but there is a slack on the chain. So I returned it to the push down position. So far so good. Last saturday, had again bombed down Stacey on some mild drops to tranny. And descend on a rock garden then speed down on a fire road. Hadn't experienced dropped chain or clang clang noise. As for now, i'll stick with this tensioner position. I'm planning to change the chain ring to a 32T. I'll take all your inputs Sir.
Sirs Soctrumbiler & Jacklero,
Had read bad reviews on the pedal. I'm observing it on every ride. Maybe due to its condition... no wear yet. The pedals & its plastic feels solid. Thanks po for the inputs. I'm planning to change it with a CB Candy or Smart pedals... or Mallet when my budget permits.
Again... mga Sirs, Thanks po for you advice...
By the way, Sir Soc, the vision frame cost me 3.5k (head set - sealed bearing & seat post collar are included).
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jacklero
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Post by jacklero on Mar 5, 2007 11:32:52 GMT 8
lloyd you may need to invert the spring inside the tensioner in order to accommodate a pushup position and you may need to cut the chain to the nearest link I think surly has a PDF manual for the singulator and similar products in their site just in case you want to give is another shot oh by the way, was trying to disassemble my pedals to try to retain the mechanism and remove the rest...unfortunately to no avail.
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lloyd
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Post by lloyd on Mar 5, 2007 12:57:22 GMT 8
Sir Jack,
My tensioner is Da bomb (RL-3)... its Rennen type. The rear sprocket is Da Bomb 9-1. I'll again try the push up set up after I can change the drive train to 32-16. Current drive train ratio is 38-16.
What pedal do you use now?
Thanks
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jacklero
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Post by jacklero on Mar 5, 2007 13:28:12 GMT 8
lloyd the rennen type though without spring load may be a bit quirky to get to work on the push-up position indeed, as for the pedals, I still use my 424s but have a pair of ritchey clipless in reserve just in case the whole shimano pedals blow over and die. hehehe
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lloyd
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Post by lloyd on Mar 5, 2007 14:35:04 GMT 8
Sir Jack,
Thanks po...
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jacklero
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Post by jacklero on Mar 6, 2007 1:52:39 GMT 8
no worries glad to be of help...
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Post by kidmunti on Apr 12, 2007 20:59:53 GMT 8
img155.imageshack.us/img155/7753/dscn1266ay6.jpgI've seen all your nice SS rigs......Good work actually. Madami din bang SS parts and frame dyan sa Pinas? Btw, i am from New Jersey and I've been riding ss since the past 7 years now. I find it fun, exciting and tormenting as well. Keep up the spirit of Mountain Biking!!!
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Post by kidmunti on Apr 12, 2007 21:06:55 GMT 8
img155.imageshack.us/img155/3733/dscn1242os0.jpgFull-time Kona SS.....18:42 gearing....never hit the trail with such gearing....you'll bust your knees. I only use this on road when spinning and touring. Could anyone post some ss pic...later guys!!!
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Post by jackass1362 on Apr 12, 2007 21:20:16 GMT 8
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Post by hardtail on May 14, 2007 21:43:27 GMT 8
14 x 33 gearing
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Post by wcoastbo on May 15, 2007 3:44:02 GMT 8
nice cranks, hardtail. do you use this setup for urban assault? I'm not familiar with your particular mech brake, looks to be very lightweight. Who makes it? Also, very unique tensioner set up. Since you're only using 1 pulley, is there enough chain wrap on the cog? looks to be only 6 teeth engaging with the chain. no slippage under extreme torque?
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Post by cobym on Jun 12, 2007 17:40:01 GMT 8
Thats a deore mechanical disk brake, if I'm not mistaken.
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Ka Verong
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Posts: 383
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Post by Ka Verong on Jun 22, 2007 14:58:34 GMT 8
My guess is that its an MOB mech DB.
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Post by g.b.b on Jun 22, 2007 22:23:38 GMT 8
deore...repainted. deore 475s i think. i still have mine installed in my brother's bike
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Post by Alphabolt on Jul 24, 2007 10:16:01 GMT 8
finally my SS setup is done! GT Zaskar frame manitou Skareb Super fork Xt V brakes CK hset mavic 217 ceramic rims + american classic hubs + dt swiss champion spokes FSA Vdrive (old square spline) Ritchey stem Easton Monkeylite hbar (too short I know) + ST Lites barends +ODI llizardskins lockons Dbomb dual roller tensioner A2Z 9-1 gearing 32:18
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Post by 32by18 on Jul 24, 2007 16:03:50 GMT 8
Nice one Arnel!
When we giving it the baptism of dirt?
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Post by Alphabolt on Jul 29, 2007 13:38:15 GMT 8
Nice one Arnel! When we giving it the baptism of dirt? Hiya Agu, I already did...rode her 4 times inside the race track of munti she s a bit difficult to ramp up the sharp inclines/mounds but she s fast, light and maneuvers like a bronco ;D I ll try a Marybar hopefully and see if its indeed better love my SS Thanks Agu
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bakalboy
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today is the best day to ride!
Posts: 112
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Post by bakalboy on Aug 6, 2007 20:08:05 GMT 8
sirs, i've read somewhere here how to make your own spacers but can't seem to find it. my problem is i can't remove the bottom bracket from my frame. i'm stuck with it's length so my chainline is off. i'm using the 9-1 converter. i was thinking of replacing the spacers to get the chain right as an immediate solution. my question is how can i make a perfect cut on the spacers so the cog won't do the ocho ocho? thanks in advance.
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ewik
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Post by ewik on Aug 6, 2007 20:34:58 GMT 8
you can use a metal file to make the spacers "straight"
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Post by Alphabolt on Aug 7, 2007 0:35:00 GMT 8
sirs, i've read somewhere here how to make your own spacers but can't seem to find it. my problem is i can't remove the bottom bracket from my frame. i'm stuck with it's length so my chainline is off. i'm using the 9-1 converter. i was thinking of replacing the spacers to get the chain right as an immediate solution. my question is how can i make a perfect cut on the spacers so the cog won't do the ocho ocho? thanks in advance. brad , if you ve tried all the possible combinations and locations of the 9-1 converter to fix your chainline...then if you ll use PVC or alum...its just a matter of cutting it using fine saws then sanding it while its inserted in a larger bore steel pipe so the larger bore steelpipe's lip will act as a sanding limiter...voila! flat surface machineshops charge too high
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bakalboy
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today is the best day to ride!
Posts: 112
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Post by bakalboy on Aug 7, 2007 8:41:33 GMT 8
thanks sir ewik and sir alphabolt. i'm limited to the combinations of my 9-1 converter coz it has only 2 spacers. i'll try your suggestions. my cousin has a machineshop and i can get it done for free, problem is he's located in pampanga. ;D do you have any idea how much a machineshop charges for this? thanks again.
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hance
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Posts: 389
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Post by hance on Aug 7, 2007 11:48:17 GMT 8
sirs, i've read somewhere here how to make your own spacers but can't seem to find it. my problem is i can't remove the bottom bracket from my frame. i'm stuck with it's length so my chainline is off. i'm using the 9-1 converter. i was thinking of replacing the spacers to get the chain right as an immediate solution. my question is how can i make a perfect cut on the spacers so the cog won't do the ocho ocho? thanks in advance. For perfectly straight and perpendicular cut, use a pipe cutter. It's also much faster, easier, and less messy. *shown here cutting my steel steerer tube but would work as well on any cylindrical PVC or aluminum tubing as long as the tool would fit
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Post by Alphabolt on Aug 8, 2007 1:40:10 GMT 8
thanks sir ewik and sir alphabolt. i'm limited to the combinations of my 9-1 converter coz it has only 2 spacers. i'll try your suggestions. my cousin has a machineshop and i can get it done for free, problem is he's located in pampanga. ;D do you have any idea how much a machineshop charges for this? thanks again. Ah ...only 2 spacers for the DaBomb 9-1...the A2Z 9-1 has 3 spacers to play with for chainline . twas from Hong Kong though
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bakalboy
XC Rider
today is the best day to ride!
Posts: 112
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Post by bakalboy on Aug 8, 2007 15:39:31 GMT 8
thanks sir hance, i will look somewhere for a pipe cutter. sir alphabot, i think a trip to pampanga will cost way less than a trip to hongkong. ;D thanks a lot for the advice.
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Post by losiphile on Aug 8, 2007 17:12:47 GMT 8
Hi bakalboy,
Maybe you can out source old/worn out cogset and disassemble them and get the spacers. 9-speed cogset have thinner spacers than 7/8-speed cogsets. You can play with thin/thick spacer combo.
That's what I did. My SS hub is an old 7-speed acera and I use DaBomb 9-1 conversion. I ended-up using only the thick spacer of 9-1 conv then 2 8-speed cog spacers to get the chainline straight.
You may also try calling John Wilkie shop, they're selling pa yata Juju cogs spacers (2mm thick yata) for Php50/each yata.
Hope this help.
Thanks.
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bakalboy
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Posts: 112
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Post by bakalboy on Aug 8, 2007 23:03:58 GMT 8
thanks sir losiphile. i think i have an old cogset here somewhere. thanks again.
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bakalboy
XC Rider
today is the best day to ride!
Posts: 112
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Post by bakalboy on Aug 10, 2007 21:03:50 GMT 8
whew! finally! i was able to remove my bb. i removed the 5mm spacer i placed on it and i'll try the bike tomorrow if it will still drop a chain. have a pvc tube for spacers but i'm still lazy to slice and dice. i have 2 questions, my bb is 118mm long and i'm thinking of replacing it to 113mm. my frame is a 05khs alite2000. what is the shortest bb available locally that i can put on this frame? and my next question is how tight is tight regarding the chain? i'm using an xtr chain. is there a better chain for SS? that's 3 questions pala> ;D here's the pix of my tukSSo. please comment(good or bad) or give suggestions on this built. this is my first time to build an SS. it will be much appreciated. thanks in advance SS gurus!
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