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Post by minotaur on Mar 9, 2008 20:46:33 GMT 8
Planing to build a low end SS1) ???Are there any compatibility issues when using different brand parts? I'll be using an old MOB hub, 2nd hand Dabomb 1 to 9 18T with an old shimano non-series crank. 2) ???Do I really need a tensioner? I've been asking around LBS in Quiapo and Pasay but none of them has any in stock... How much does a new one cost anyway? Where can I get them? TIA
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Post by 32by18 on Mar 9, 2008 21:06:37 GMT 8
1) ???Are there any compatibility issues when using different brand parts? I'll be using an old MOB hub, 2nd hand Dabomb 1 to 9 18T with an old shimano non-series crank. You shouldn't have any problems with regards to compatibility. 2) ???Do I really need a tensioner? You can look for the "magic ratio" that negates the use of a tensioner. Check out Sheldon Brown(RIP)'s website for more info: sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.htmlI've been asking around LBS in Quiapo and Pasay but none of them has any in stock... How much does a new one cost anyway? Where can I get them? I've seen some FIREEYE ones in Cycle Options...going for P1200 or so I think... Good luck with your build - post pics and do let us know if you need any help or have any questions!
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bobby
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Post by bobby on Mar 10, 2008 1:38:01 GMT 8
yes do play around with the chains, cogs, and cranks, till you find the said "magic ratio" as 32by18 says. In my opinion tensionerless looks cleaner. Actually i couldn't afford one, so that i decided to mix match till i found the right combination going tensionerless. Happy hunting.
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Post by Alphabolt on Mar 10, 2008 8:29:12 GMT 8
Brahm brad,
a bit redundant but I ll add my bikemech's (BongL) 2 cents:
1) ???Are there any compatibility issues when using different brand parts?
I'll be using an old MOB hub, 2nd hand Dabomb 1 to 9 18T with an old shimano non-series crank.
No worries with the parts being compatible..they are
2) ???Do I really need a tensioner?
I've been asking around LBS in Quiapo and Pasay but none of them has any in stock... How much does a new one cost anyway? Where can I get them?
As Agu said ...Fireeye at Cycle Options (P1200)and the DaBomb at Endless Bikes (P800 or so) In the absence of an eccentric BB or a horizontal drop out (meaning you ll use any standard vert dropout frame),my bike mech told me that he prefers using tensioners coz rough riding can still mess up your chainline and make it jump and suck tensioner setups are abit heavier but a sure one
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Post by Patrick on Mar 10, 2008 9:53:01 GMT 8
Arnel your bike mech is right, I would prefer vertical+tensioner over horizontal since the hub will still slip under load. Hell mine still slips even though I'm using vertical, bolts and all.
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Post by cobym on Mar 10, 2008 10:33:10 GMT 8
You can also go with a half-link in your chain to run the chain tensionerless, but it will still take some experimentation and trial and error. Go with a tensioner for less hassle. The Fireeye single speed kit in Cycle Options comes with two cogs (16 and 18), tensioner and spacers.
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Post by minotaur on Mar 10, 2008 23:02:52 GMT 8
Thanks for the replies guys.
I'll be getting the tensioner being sold at the B&S section from ogie this thursday. Not really a weight weenie anyway so I don't mind adding a few more reasonable parts.
Basically, most of the components are second hand kinda like Arci's ukay-ukay SS but alot cheaper ;D
Thanks for keeping tha ball rolling.
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Post by Alphabolt on Mar 10, 2008 23:05:12 GMT 8
Arnel your bike mech is right, I would prefer vertical+tensioner over horizontal since the hub will still slip under load. Hell mine still slips even though I'm using vertical, bolts and all. Yup , Patrick. my mech s one of the best nga...too bad he might migrate soon @coby, my bike mech still prefers to add tensioners vs eccentric BBs, horizontal dropouts, halflinks. a more solid setup he says
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Post by minotaur on Mar 14, 2008 0:16:27 GMT 8
Just finished my SS!!!
It was'nt easy but I did it... and I have this unerasable smile on my face from the first time I test rode it and until now. Maybe its because I have a new(not really) bike or the sensation of actually riding one.
Although it a cheap build and there is still a few kinks which I need to straighten I'm happy with the way it turned out. Its way lighter than my XC rig which I neved did expect plus the fact that its basically worry free.
;D ;D ;D
I'll be breaking it in this saturday at UP. Will post pics soon.
Thanks guys!
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Post by Alphabolt on Mar 14, 2008 0:23:31 GMT 8
Just finished my SS!!! It was'nt easy but I did it... and I have this unerasable smile on my face from the first time I test rode it and until now. Maybe its because I have a new(not really) bike or the sensation of actually riding one. Although it a cheap build and there is still a few kinks which I need to straighten I'm happy with the way it turned out. Its way lighter than my XC rig which I neved did expect plus the fact that its basically worry free. ;D ;D ;D I'll be breaking it in this saturday at UP. Will post pics soon. Thanks guys! Congrats, Brahm brad! post pics k! Let s SS soon with the SS halimaws Agu and JM ~Arnel
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Post by minotaur on Mar 14, 2008 8:01:47 GMT 8
Thanks.
The steerer tube of my XCR fork is about 3/4 inch short since I'm using a short genetic stem with a tall body so I had to install a stem lock just to secure it firmly.
I feel no worries about it since its not a jump bike but I'll need to have it fixed at BOYET WORKS so I can sleep better at night. I'll probably have it done next week.
Other than that, I need to repack my 4 year old MOB rear hub which I can do myself.
It feels weird going back to cable V brakes again after a long stint with a hydrulic disk... I can actually feel the cable rubbing in its well lubed housing.
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Post by Dakarider on Mar 25, 2008 17:54:43 GMT 8
How about the chain? I'm planing to get a frame with a horizontal dropout and have a 32x18 combo. Given this set up, would my old 9spd HG chain be good enough or should I still get an 8spd IG? I'm on a really tight budget on this secret project. ;D
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bobby
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Post by bobby on Mar 25, 2008 18:33:16 GMT 8
if your tight on a budget, that would do. But as they say HG's are more narrower than IG's. but then, me i use an IG and no qualms about it. Best is always bring extra links with you when you travel. For the meantime install that HG chain of yours it is good enough.
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Post by 32by18 on Mar 31, 2008 18:21:02 GMT 8
Dakarider...use what you got. Just make sure you bring a chain tool and extra links. As Bobby said. Your secret project isn't secret anymore hehe
Also, make sure your frame has provisions to secure the rear axle properly, to prevent slipping. (via sliding drop outs, adjustment screws, tugg-nuts, etc)
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sire_andre
All-Mountain Rider
KAIZRE and DAD
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Post by sire_andre on Apr 3, 2008 9:35:46 GMT 8
dudes... i too got a question about single speed, i got two extra frames, one has a seat tube height of 19" and the other is 17"...i'm 5'8" tall, both frames got vertical drop-outs...what's the nice geometry and crank-sprocket ratio that suited for it? the brakes system would be a v brake unless there's a adaptor for disc brakes in frames.
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Post by 32by18 on Apr 3, 2008 10:18:52 GMT 8
Sire Andre
Use whichever frame fits you better.
As for gear ratio, it's quite subjective. But a lot of riders start off with 32x18 and adjust upwards or downwards according to personal preference.
Just make sure you have a means of securing the chain (use a tensioner)
V-brakes are perfectly fine. On a SS (especially on the trails) you'll learn how to keep momentum, brake smarter and look for the fastest/smoothest lines.
Good luck and post pics!
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sire_andre
All-Mountain Rider
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Post by sire_andre on Apr 3, 2008 14:07:37 GMT 8
@ sir 32by18,
okay sir, i'll post my soon to be single speed on the next post, i do have the jpges on my phone but the thing is i cant transfer it to my pc...thanks for the advise...
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Post by ice on Apr 3, 2008 14:26:42 GMT 8
congrats brahm brad!
a few more parts and i could join you ss-ing hehehe!
by the way, what's d ideal handle bar/ stem set-up for ss?
and, what performs better, a single pulley tensioner or a double?
tia
curahee!
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Post by 32by18 on Apr 3, 2008 14:39:31 GMT 8
Hi Ice
Generally, a wide handlebar lets you use more of your body weight when climbing. It also opens up your chest so you can breathe better. As for stem length, that, along with saddle to stem drop, depends on personal preference and riding style. I prefer a lower riding position.
For tensioners, the less friction, the better. So a single pulley setup would be better, in most cases.
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bobby
Free Rider
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Post by bobby on Apr 3, 2008 23:45:14 GMT 8
dudes... i too got a question about single speed, i got two extra frames, one has a seat tube height of 19" and the other is 17"...i'm 5'8" tall, both frames got vertical drop-outs...what's the nice geometry and crank-sprocket ratio that suited for it? the brakes system would be a v brake unless there's a adaptor for disc brakes in frames. i have two SS's one 16 and the other 18 seat tube height both works for me. my 18 incher runs full rigid, while my 16 1nch has suspension up front, i use 36x18 and 34x17 road use. all of my bicycles have V's. the 16 has vertical dropouts while the 18 has horizontal ones, play around man you will enjoy it.
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bobby
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Post by bobby on Apr 4, 2008 0:03:25 GMT 8
Thanks. The steerer tube of my XCR fork is about 3/4 inch short since I'm using a short genetic stem with a tall body so I had to install a stem lock just to secure it firmly. I feel no worries about it since its not a jump bike but I'll need to have it fixed at BOYET WORKS so I can sleep better at night. I'll probably have it done next week. Other than that, I need to repack my 4 year old MOB rear hub which I can do myself. It feels weird going back to cable V brakes again after a long stint with a hydrulic disk... I can actually feel the cable rubbing in its well lubed housing. i also had that problem before, a short steerer tube, what i did was install an oversize to oversize adapter with a shim, kinda solved the problem though, but just to be sure because it was for the wifey, when i had the much needed funds i bought her a new fork. as they say once you have tried and used hydro's there is no going back to cables, the modulation is different, and feather light. thats why you find it weird.
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Post by ice on Apr 15, 2008 13:03:29 GMT 8
another ss newbie question here..... i was adviced that 8-speed chain is the chain of choice for ss... i've got a spare xt 9-speed chain to spare...question: instead of buying an 8-speed chain, can i use the spare 9-speed chain for my ss project? tia curahee!
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Post by Dakarider on Apr 19, 2008 16:39:40 GMT 8
Something similar to sir Ice's question What type of chain is the best for SS? Most say just get an 8 speed IG but I heard there is a SS specific chain made by KMC. The KMC chain I saw was similar to this:
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Makoy
All-Mountain Rider
MTB POSER lang po
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Post by Makoy on Apr 19, 2008 16:52:59 GMT 8
I use IGs on my SS since it's cheaper and it looks tougher and stouter. they say those KMC gold/silver can stretch on heavy load thus prevent it from snapping, true? but i think 3k for a chain is too steep for me i wish i had a frame with a hor dropout so my SS will look a bit cleaner im currently using a fireeye tensioner...
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Post by 32by18 on Apr 19, 2008 21:47:12 GMT 8
Ice - When i started SSing I used 8 speed chains, had no problems with them and they are fairly cheap. I was given a KMC SS chain as a gift and it does look sturdier than a multispeed chain, albeit slightly heavier. By all means, use the 9 speed chain for now - you already have it on hand and the sooner you get your SS rolling the better Just make sure you change your chain once you've: 1) noticed it has stretched quite a bit 2) snapped links 3) notice chain slippage 4) if you ride regularly, might be best to fit a new chain quarterly or 2x a year. Small - can you run the Fireye in push-up position? meaning have the chain pass on top of the pulley? That way more of the cog is wrapped by the chain, and more of your torque will be used to drive the wheel. If you want a clean look, you can also experiment with gear ratios and find the 'magic ratio' - one that doesn't need a tensioner. You can also buy an ENO eccentric rear hub but those are pricey See you guys at the ToF, if ever. I will be somewhere at the back of the pack
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bobby
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Post by bobby on Apr 20, 2008 1:38:32 GMT 8
lets all be behind the pack so we can easily bailout .
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Makoy
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MTB POSER lang po
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Post by Makoy on Apr 20, 2008 15:53:15 GMT 8
32by18, it tried to modify it so it would push up. but the spring inside won't lodge from its socket, it's seems that is's well embedded. id love to play with the magic ratio so i can use it sans the tensioner. but too lazi ill just save up for a frame with a hor DO thanks hope we can organize an SS trail ride soon
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Post by flipnidaho on Apr 20, 2008 19:31:11 GMT 8
32by18, it tried to modify it so it would push up. but the spring inside won't lodge from its socket, it's seems that is's well embedded. id love to play with the magic ratio so i can use it sans the tensioner. but too lazi ill just save up for a frame with a hor DO thanks hope we can organize an SS trail ride soon All you really need is a half link and a file and you should be able to get to the magic ratio... Step 1- Get the chain as close to perfect as possible using a half link if necessary (it may end up to be slightly loose or slightly tight). Step 2- Start filing off the axle of your hub (where it slots into your drop out) evenly until you achieve the perfect chain length... This is easier to do with V's than discs but I've done it with both. You just have to be a bit more precise with your filing when using discs.... The best thing about this ghetto eno conversion is that the only cost is for the half link...
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Makoy
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Post by Makoy on Apr 20, 2008 19:47:11 GMT 8
thank you sir. ill try it as soon as i get hold of a half link
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Post by flipnidaho on Apr 20, 2008 21:05:20 GMT 8
thank you sir. ill try it as soon as i get hold of a half link NP... let me know if you have any questions... Here is what it looks like... In this case, I did not have to use a half link since a stretched chain made it close enough to fit with a little bit of axle filing. You just have to make sure you file an even amount (and on an even plane on both sides of the axle). It's pretty easy to eyeball it...
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