|
Post by chocker on Dec 14, 2007 9:53:28 GMT 8
SS'er.. i recently convert my rig into SS set-up.i'm using Lx crank 06,Dabomb 9-1 & dabomb tensioner the one with the red roller.i set it up in "hapet"(tight) mode and "lundo"(loose) mode but still the same it derailed me twice and i ended up in the cockpit on my bike.this happened when i push my pedal hard or making a "bwelo" coz it is 32x16 and kinda heavy.my buddy said that i must remove my spacer in the crank on the drive side coz he said that its not align well although a bit difference lang naman,will this work?or is it a chain problem? its for 8 speed ig..need your help badly..thanks very much!
|
|
|
Post by king on Dec 14, 2007 11:11:17 GMT 8
your friend is probably right. if your chainring & cog aren't aligned, the chain will shift off the ring.
|
|
Makoy
All-Mountain Rider
MTB POSER lang po
Posts: 155
|
Post by Makoy on Dec 14, 2007 11:47:52 GMT 8
i second
|
|
|
Post by janix on Dec 14, 2007 12:26:29 GMT 8
me too. recently converted my old mtb to an SS, using DaBomb 9-1 and an IG chain. same thing also happens.
|
|
|
Post by chocker on Dec 14, 2007 12:59:38 GMT 8
me too. recently converted my old mtb to an SS, using DaBomb 9-1 and an IG chain. same thing also happens. sir,did you solve it na??
|
|
Ka Verong
Free Rider
We only but have one world, preserve it... conserve it.. save it...
Posts: 383
|
Post by Ka Verong on Dec 14, 2007 13:19:34 GMT 8
I have had the same experience. The 9to1 & their tensioner is not good. You have to worry about the perfect chainline and another thing, their cog has ruts that is prone to derailment. Quick fix would be. 1. Make sure that you have a perfect chain-line. By either you adding washer to your chainring or If you're using an old hub where you can transfer spacers/washers from the left to right of your axle. The problem with aligning chainline in hubs, is that you have to true your rims/wheelset as well, & the wheel may be too "dished". Another thing this can't be done on hubs with diskbrakes. 2. Dump the 9 to 1 spacers, use spacers such as these: These are Chris Kings but I've seen similar spacers @ alterra. Notice that there are 7 spacers & a cog, that means you can setup your cog in 8 different locations. You can use a granny or the power ring if you want. Cool di ba? 3. Use a full profile BMX cog like this both are 18t cogs, the silver comes from dabomb 9to1 kit. Notice that the silver cog has ruts & low profile teeth unlike the Black BMX cog. The full profile teeth of the BMX cog will prevent derailment even if your chain-line is not perfect. 4. Dump the DaBomb tensioner & use an old derailleur so that you dont have to worry about perfect chain-line. SS'er.. i recently convert my rig into SS set-up.i'm using Lx crank 06,Dabomb 9-1 & dabomb tensioner the one with the red roller.i set it up in "hapet"(tight) mode and "lundo"(loose) mode but still the same it derailed me twice and i ended up in the cockpit on my bike.this happened when i push my pedal hard or making a "bwelo" coz it is 32x16 and kinda heavy.my buddy said that i must remove my spacer in the crank on the drive side coz he said that its not align well although a bit difference lang naman,will this work?or is it a chain problem? its for 8 speed ig..need your help badly..thanks very much!
|
|
|
Post by janix on Dec 14, 2007 14:27:42 GMT 8
i'm sure there could be another solution rather than dumping what we've bought right...
|
|
Ka Verong
Free Rider
We only but have one world, preserve it... conserve it.. save it...
Posts: 383
|
Post by Ka Verong on Dec 14, 2007 15:22:35 GMT 8
I'm with you in this brad. Me too want to squeeze everything of my hard earned money up to the last centavo of what I purchased. Well, we can always approach a problem differently. As a well know quote say "Your creativity is the only limit." And I'm sure you are correct to say that there are other solution. for my part, I have at least suggested 4 possible solution, & the first one doesn't involve any purchase, except maybe for a few washers. Sir, if I may add (sorry ha, if I'm kulit) I think everybody finds the cog with grooves when used in SS is detrimental to safely. Cause in geared bike, if it misshift, you would either go to d next cog, or your chain will lock-up. But in SS you may slam your shin with the pedal, or ram your face in the cockpit or pavement. I'm sure that we all prioritize safety over spending on a reliable equipment. Afterall its just a few more hundred bucks. Mas magastos ang gamot at hospital. .02 i'm sure there could be another solution rather than dumping what we've bought right...
|
|
Makoy
All-Mountain Rider
MTB POSER lang po
Posts: 155
|
Post by Makoy on Dec 14, 2007 16:01:38 GMT 8
what i did on mine, i aligned it thru BB spacers and used the double-cogged sprung tensioner
|
|
|
Post by king on Dec 14, 2007 20:31:54 GMT 8
first and foremost, align the cogs & chainring, and set up the tensioner in the "push up" position (below the chain, pushing it toward the chainstay). you shouldnt have to buy anything new, although a full profile cog like the ones that used to accompany the 9-1 converters, would be better. i think i saw a full profile 16T cog in All Terra.
|
|
|
Post by 32by18 on Dec 14, 2007 21:06:31 GMT 8
as King said, try using the tensioner in the push-up position. You can even zip-tie it in place so there's more chain wrap on the rear cog.
chainline is important. make sure the chain runs as straight as possible from the cog to the chainring. you can also shift the chainring from outboard of the crankarm, to inboard, if needed.
|
|
|
Post by anthony on Dec 14, 2007 21:17:04 GMT 8
Same thing happen to me, first time i convert my HT to SS. The solution i made was cut a few chain and made my roller aligned with the chain stay, since then never had problem again. For reference see attached picture. Da bomb 9to1,tensioner and IG Chain
|
|
|
Post by janix on Dec 14, 2007 22:28:23 GMT 8
techno wise... i think going SS was more complicated for me than i thought. hehe
anyways, my dabomb is a full profile 16T so i have to problem with that, it might be my tensioner only. will work on it. thanks for inputs!
|
|
|
Post by glockbiker on Dec 18, 2007 17:23:29 GMT 8
When I first went singlespeeding in 1999, my setup was an old Suntour threaded rear hub, a Shimano BMX freewheel (18T), IG-90 chain and a Spot 34T SS-specific chainring.
Threaded hubs are so easy to align kaya you always get a perfect chainline. And since both my freewheel and chainring have full-profle teeth, I never experienced a deraillment.
I NEVER USED A TENSIONER.
BTW, I used an old chromo MTB HT frame with regular vertical dropouts.
|
|
jarod
All-Mountain Rider
Having fun is all there is!
Posts: 194
|
Post by jarod on Dec 19, 2007 12:49:28 GMT 8
glockbiker: pardon my ignorance, is there a way to plant a BMX hub into a MTB frame? Or might as well just get a "free-wheel" hub for me to able to use a BMX cog? Thanks!
|
|
Ka Verong
Free Rider
We only but have one world, preserve it... conserve it.. save it...
Posts: 383
|
Post by Ka Verong on Dec 19, 2007 15:37:29 GMT 8
Although you have made a work around, it would depend on much off centered your BB is. The effect of adding bb spacers to get a good chain-line may not always be a good idea. Because you chose chain-line at the expense of the rider's position. If your BB is off-center only by a few mm & if you're using platform pedals, I guess this is not much an issue. what i did on mine, i aligned it thru BB spacers and used the double-cogged sprung tensioner
|
|
Ka Verong
Free Rider
We only but have one world, preserve it... conserve it.. save it...
Posts: 383
|
Post by Ka Verong on Dec 19, 2007 15:41:43 GMT 8
The drawback with threaded hubs though is your stuck with rim brakes. When I first went singlespeeding in 1999, my setup was an old Suntour threaded rear hub, a Shimano BMX freewheel (18T), IG-90 chain and a Spot 34T SS-specific chainring. Threaded hubs are so easy to align kaya you always get a perfect chainline. And since both my freewheel and chainring have full-profle teeth, I never experienced a deraillment. I NEVER USED A TENSIONER. BTW, I used an old chromo MTB HT frame with regular vertical dropouts.
|
|
|
Post by Ben Dover on Dec 19, 2007 17:51:37 GMT 8
dang! there's enough science in here to make an atom bomb.
|
|
|
Post by sup on Dec 20, 2007 12:29:44 GMT 8
a threaded hub will work if it's a 135mm one (mtb specific). there are a lot of threaded hubs, but they are spaced for road or bmx bikes. it's a little hard to find 135mm threaded hubs. wait for fattire's update on the on one flip flop hubs. i'm saving for those. just to add, you can still use road hubs, but it should be redished and spaced accordingly.
|
|
manitou
Bike Commuter
Niner Bikes - The big Revolution
Posts: 69
|
Post by manitou on Dec 20, 2007 12:39:56 GMT 8
grantrail will have stock of some ss cogs by niner by January, 18t, 19t, and 20t in case you want a dedicated cog
|
|
|
Post by glockbiker on Dec 20, 2007 12:53:45 GMT 8
jarodI'm not sure about BMX-specific hubs. Never tried them kasi. Yeah, I think it would be easier to just use modern freewheel hubs and look for a Shimano DX cog. supPrecisely! That's why I used Suntour Express MTB threaded hubs for my first SS rig. Got them from very first MTB (na pina-assemble ko kay Newton Bikeshop in 1991). I still have them. If I ever get the urge to build a spare SS wheelset, I'll use them. Might even have them anodized for a little bling.
|
|
|
Post by sup on Dec 20, 2007 13:04:30 GMT 8
you're lucky, glockbiker! i wanted a surly threaded hub before, but it's a little expensive. i hope the on ones are more affordable (locally) as you can get the rear only.
chocker, sorry i invaded your thread. i hope you get to fix your chainline problem.
|
|
|
Post by chocker on Dec 21, 2007 0:30:08 GMT 8
you're lucky, glockbiker! i wanted a surly threaded hub before, but it's a little expensive. i hope the on ones are more affordable (locally) as you can get the rear only. chocker, sorry i invaded your thread. i hope you get to fix your chainline problem. no problem sir, more inputs more ideas..thanks for everybody!..maybe ill try it one by one na lng..first is to get a full profile sproket.. i already transferd the spacer on the left side, nag improved naman alignment but still iba na sigurado..
|
|
|
Post by nine-inch-neils on Dec 21, 2007 5:40:23 GMT 8
... and when everything else fails... bring your bike to your nearest trusted LBS. Hopefully they can help.
|
|
lloyd
Free Rider
Posts: 376
|
Post by lloyd on Dec 21, 2007 13:08:19 GMT 8
I don't have any bad experience on Da Bomb 9 to 1 converter as well as their RL-2 and RL-3 tensioners. On my SS rig at home, I used Da bomb 9 to 1 converter... its 16T... the teeth are high profile... really designed for SS setup. The tensioner is Da bomb RL-2 (w/ sealed bearing)... set up in push down position. Chain is IG-51. I used the rig for DJ, Urban and Aggressive XC. Haven't experienced derailing issue.
For my current rig here, I still used Da bomb 9 to 1 converter, 16T low profile (same as w/ the geared cassette). Tensioner is Da bomb RL-3 (no bearing) and chain is IG-51. Used the bike for spinning and urban. So far so good, haven't experienced derailing issue.
For the issue on derailing, check again your chain line and the chain's tension or better, have it checked by a good bike mechanic.
|
|