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Post by anthony on Oct 4, 2007 12:24:15 GMT 8
thanks Tabs! Hope to ride with you soon
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Post by SDGryan on Oct 8, 2007 8:01:57 GMT 8
Finally..... Jamis Dakota XC - Chromo Frame Manitou Skareb Platinum/TPC Lockout Fork BB7 Brakes Deore Brake Lever Sun UFO Rims + American Classic Hubs + DT Swiss Revos spokes XT Crank w/ Bashguard CB Candy SL - PEDAL Dimension Stem Dabomb Daluxe Seatpost Turbolite Strbar+ Coda Expert Barends +Sars Grip Dbomb Tensioner Dabomb 9-1 Gearing 32:18 -- Thanks for viewing.
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Post by king on Oct 8, 2007 8:57:52 GMT 8
nice Dakota! my only comment is to watch the AC rear hub. the alloy cassette carrier gets damaged easily, especially with all the torque going into that single, thin cog. you might want to look for a wider-base cog (like a Surly) right away,
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Post by g.b.b on Oct 8, 2007 9:23:48 GMT 8
so.... you're the one who got this chromo frame of jamis..... hehehe sayang i missed that opportunity.... tsk tsk....
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Post by 32by18 on Oct 8, 2007 9:51:08 GMT 8
nice Dakota! my only comment is to watch the AC rear hub. the alloy cassette carrier gets damaged easily, especially with all the torque going into that single, thin cog. you might want to look for a wider-base cog (like a Surly) right away, Yup. A wide-based cog would help decrease the stress on the alu cassette carrier. Grab a Surly one, and while you're at it, might as well buy a spare (or one in another size), since these are a bit hard to come by. Nice Jamis. Hopefully we'll have a nice period of rain-free days, so we can set up another SS ride
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Post by SDGryan on Oct 8, 2007 11:19:03 GMT 8
nice Dakota! my only comment is to watch the AC rear hub. the alloy cassette carrier gets damaged easily, especially with all the torque going into that single, thin cog. you might want to look for a wider-base cog (like a Surly) right away, Sir king, my original AC rear hub is already busted and replaced by AC company with a shimano cassete body and camplate for free hehehe. thanks ;D
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jarod
All-Mountain Rider
Having fun is all there is!
Posts: 194
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Post by jarod on Oct 9, 2007 12:52:43 GMT 8
Finally..... Jamis Dakota XC - Chromo Frame Manitou Skareb Platinum/TPC Lockout Fork BB7 Brakes Deore Brake Lever Sun UFO Rims + American Classic Hubs + DT Swiss Revos spokes XT Crank w/ Bashguard CB Candy SL - PEDAL Dimension Stem Dabomb Daluxe Seatpost Turbolite Strbar+ Coda Expert Barends +Sars Grip Dbomb Tensioner Dabomb 9-1 Gearing 32:18 -- Thanks for viewing. Hi SGDRyan, May I know what kind of chain are you using? Where and how much did get it? Thanks!
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Post by arcireyes on Oct 9, 2007 13:09:56 GMT 8
hi jarod, if i may, a dabomb 9-1 is normally coupled with a Shimano IG51 chain AFAIK IG51 chain sells @250-300
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Post by SDGryan on Oct 10, 2007 8:58:40 GMT 8
Hi SGDRyan, May I know what kind of chain are you using? Where and how much did get it? Thanks! Sir Jarod, not sure if its a Shimano-HG53 or IG51 but its a 8speed chain. Sir Arci is correct a dabomb 9-1 is normally coupled with a Shimano IG51 chain.
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jarod
All-Mountain Rider
Having fun is all there is!
Posts: 194
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Post by jarod on Oct 10, 2007 13:10:28 GMT 8
hi jarod, if i may, a dabomb 9-1 is normally coupled with a Shimano IG51 chain AFAIK IG51 chain sells @250-300 Sir Jarod, not sure if its a Shimano-HG53 or IG51 but its a 8speed chain. Sir Arci is correct a dabomb 9-1 is normally coupled with a Shimano IG51 chain. Thanks sir arci and ryan! Is the IG51 chain wider than the normal multispeed chains? I read somewhere that wider chains are recommended for SS since wider chain are more forgiving to chain sideward movements plays?
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Post by arcireyes on Oct 10, 2007 14:14:30 GMT 8
jarod: i'm not that tech savvie when it comes to bike parts but as per recommendations given by SSers, the wider IG51 chain (used for 8 speed) is better than the narrower HG chains (used for 9 speed). perhaps 32x18, jmlag, king or some other more knowledgable peepz can give added info on this one.
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Post by king on Oct 10, 2007 14:28:21 GMT 8
the 8-speed IG-51 may or may not be more durable. i've broken both 8 & 9 speed chains. it's cheaper though jarod, on a singlespeed there won't be any side to side movement since the chainline between the chainring & the cog is already straight.
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Post by xctofi on Oct 10, 2007 14:28:24 GMT 8
as for the chain, an 8 speed chain is slightly sturdier and cheaper then a nine speed one. like agu, i use Shimano IG-51. i broke it on a la mesa ride around a month ago but i've fixed it and it's been ok since. it's must be over a year old so i should actually replace it soon. no problem bakalboy... a ss specific chain is also wider (as opposed to a 8 or 9 speed chain) allowing you more tolerance for an mm off on the chainline. >follow up question... >which chain is stronger or has lesser chances of snapping: a 9-speed chain or an >8-speed chain? 8 speed chains are a bit wider than the 9 speed ones, and are potentially stronger. I've had no problems with my IG51.>will an 8-speed chain work with my setup (LX '03 cranks)? how much weight will >i gain (i think 8-speed chains are heavier than 9-speed chains, hehe.)? weight is negligible - for peace of mind i'd go with a heavier, stronger chain that has a lesser chance of snapping under power than a WW oneno such thing as a dumb question...just ask away!
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Post by kulot_salot on Oct 10, 2007 23:42:56 GMT 8
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Post by g.b.b on Oct 11, 2007 2:22:33 GMT 8
go for tensioner.... avoid chainguide......... heavier is the reason but also gives tension to the chain........ and another is you will be the weird looking SS setup....... go for it if you want to be noticed or different just like your closest friend w - - - - e...
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Post by kulot_salot on Oct 11, 2007 10:54:31 GMT 8
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Makoy
All-Mountain Rider
MTB POSER lang po
Posts: 155
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Post by Makoy on Oct 13, 2007 18:56:03 GMT 8
finally got my SS running 18T 9-1 dabomb cog mated with a double roller tensioner and deore 3 2T chainring, i am happiness
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jacklero
Free Rider
Haha! Mine is longer!
Posts: 226
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Post by jacklero on Oct 17, 2007 0:08:32 GMT 8
I've used a chain guide before on my second SS as an alternative to the rear tensioner just remember to get the chainguides with the wider pulleys and remove the top guide it is will be useless since the chain slack is always at the bottom when you are pedaling. These look rather interesting by the way just keep the tension in push mode (pulley pushing the chain up)
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Post by sup on Oct 17, 2007 10:16:21 GMT 8
hey small! very nice build! what tires are on it? i like it!
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Makoy
All-Mountain Rider
MTB POSER lang po
Posts: 155
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Post by Makoy on Oct 17, 2007 10:26:19 GMT 8
bontrager Hank po, 2.2x26
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Post by 'Bee' on Oct 22, 2007 5:55:31 GMT 8
Finally, after a long wait, my EXOTIC Full Rigid 69er is now running.
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Post by flipnidaho on Oct 22, 2007 9:14:35 GMT 8
nice build... it looks like you may not even need that rennen tensioner on that bike...
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Post by sup on Oct 22, 2007 10:12:45 GMT 8
banny, i like the top tube brace/protector. it either protects the top tube or your balls. ;D
i like the color scheme: black, gold, silver.
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Post by 'Bee' on Oct 22, 2007 12:46:28 GMT 8
nice build... it looks like you may not even need that rennen tensioner on that bike... Thanks, Gary. I tried a setup without it, it's seems that it's too slack. Also tried using a half link and I got the same result. Might not be a problem without it or I'm just paranoid that the chain would skip the cog or it will fall.
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Post by 'Bee' on Oct 22, 2007 12:50:18 GMT 8
banny, i like the top tube brace/protector. it either protects the top tube or your balls. ;D i like the color scheme: black, gold, silver. Allan, It's a misplaced chainstay protector to hold the brake cable in place. But it's a good "ball" protector as well, hehehe.... Aside from the black and silver (titanium), the colour scheme is RASTA (green, gold and red), that's why it's called Exotic. I will post the details in the gallery soon.
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bakalboy
XC Rider
today is the best day to ride!
Posts: 112
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Post by bakalboy on Oct 22, 2007 22:30:15 GMT 8
sir bee, is your bontrager fork the 26" or the 29" version? nice rig! thanks!
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Post by flipnidaho on Oct 22, 2007 22:30:41 GMT 8
nice build... it looks like you may not even need that rennen tensioner on that bike... Thanks, Gary. I tried a setup without it, it's seems that it's too slack. Also tried using a half link and I got the same result. Might not be a problem without it or I'm just paranoid that the chain would skip the cog or it will fall. An alternative would be to shave a few mm off of each axle cap to allow a couple of mm's of movement. On 4 of my SS bikes, I shaved some off to be able to move the hub forward a few mm's, saving the need for a tensioner. If you turn the shaved area to the back, you can actually add some chainlength. I call this my ghetto eno conversion. I've done the ghetto eno on an XTR, WTB, Spinergy and Hugi hubs (3 disc and 1 non-disc). The cool thing is that you still have half the axle cap that is untouched so you can go back to having the axle sit regularly in the drop out once the chain stretches or use the wheel on your other non-SS bikes. Hope this helps... Plus, it will reduce another 100 grams or so off your bike! Spinergy XTR wheelset: DT Swiss/Hugi: WTB:
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Post by baboinsky on Oct 22, 2007 22:36:16 GMT 8
Finally, after a long wait, my EXOTIC Full Rigid 69er is now running. Nice build Banny! How does it ride?
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Post by king on Oct 22, 2007 22:48:15 GMT 8
gary, which part is the axle cap? you've got to show me how to do that when you get here.
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Post by flipnidaho on Oct 22, 2007 23:02:32 GMT 8
gary, which part is the axle cap? you've got to show me how to do that when you get here. Hi King, A picture is worth a thousand words... Here is what it looks like on the WTB wheel on the gold Inbred. The red paint is from Sharpie marks I made for reference points as you have to make sure that you file the axle caps at the same plane (I just eyeballed it)... You can see that half the axle cap is still normal and the other half is filed down flat so I can move it forward (or backward) to fine tune the chain tension without a tensioner. The good thing is that this modification is not visible with the wheels installed so if you have nice wheels, there will be no ugly file marks that people can see. Also, you can just get new axle caps if you want to sell the wheels or if you screw up the ghetto eno conversion... In Bee's SS, he would have the filed flat area towards the rear since he needs to take up slack. Mine was too tight so I ran the filed flat area to the front to add slack.
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