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Post by Julio on Sept 12, 2006 14:16:49 GMT 8
does this apply to switchbacks? i did it kanina, but i'm having a hard time doing it. switchback, downhill. On switchbacks, I use hard rear braking as i approach the elbow, locking the brakes making a fishtale and aiming the whole bike at the end of the turn, then release brakes.., or sometimes I just lift my rear to allign the bike with the exit of the switchback. I TRY to do this also! It looks good and it sounds good too. Hehe. Although it probably isn't good for the trail...
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Post by bongjumper on Sept 13, 2006 13:41:30 GMT 8
So the tips for being a better XC bikers is all about bikes, more lighter bike the bikers have, the better XC rider... I'm already confuse for many specific call for their bikes. How can we categorize all this XC bikes Hardtail XC bike, Hardtail Race Specific XC bike, Aggressive HT XC bike... FS XC bike, FS Race Specific XC bike, Aggressive FS XC bike... Is it because of the weight or because of the bike set-up
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Post by whoopi on Sept 13, 2006 13:59:03 GMT 8
braking. a lot of folks prefer applying brakes at the rear. that's a big no-no. i dont need to emphasize on this one, just do it. apply brakes at the front and modulate using the rear. also, don't apply brakes on a turn. apply brakes before making the turn and once you achieve the desired speed, go ahead and make the turn. JON, please indulge my stupid question, why shouldn't you brake at the rear?
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Post by mountguitars on Sept 13, 2006 14:24:08 GMT 8
So the tips for being a better XC bikers is all about bikes, more lighter bike the bikers have, the better XC rider... I'm already confuse for many specific call for their bikes. How can we categorize all this XC bikes Hardtail XC bike, Hardtail Race Specific XC bike, Aggressive HT XC bike... FS XC bike, FS Race Specific XC bike, Aggressive FS XC bike... Is it because of the weight or because of the bike set-up sorry bong for some of the OT here. i know question about the specs of a hypothetical lightweight bike should've been in the weight weenies section. there's a lot of trails and for every trail there's one bike that can do better on that trail but it depends on the ability of the person using such bike. if a trail calls for gradual uphills and steep continous downhills, you're better off with a FS. if the trail is filled with rutts and big chunks of rocks then you're better off with an aggressive FS XC bike. if the trail calls for steep uphill climbs and gradual downhill or even rolling, you're better off with a HT. there's a lot of different scenarios that can be presented but it all boils down to rider's preferrence and his ability to handle a bike. for the paragraph above, you can mix up the trail and the bike and for some it wouldn't make a difference or for some, the bike affects the outcome of each ride. that's why a some bike companies make different models to cover almost every trail in existence to man. some even try to amalgate every detail and make a rig that can do all the stuff you'll ever need to do, the so called 'the one bike' as in santa cruz's nomad. when you add 'racing' though to each term, that's a different story. everything has to be light and fast coz its a race. one should be ready to take the sacrifices of using a lighter bike like being able to handle bigger bumps your 3-inch fork isn't able to handle or the way it flexes whenever you break hard or due to sudden drops and rough terrain. using skinny and less knobbier tires for better rolling resistence and lighter weight but you sacrifice handling just so you can gain speed. not that bumps cant slow you down, it will. its just a matter of sacrifice. you're thinking 'i can gain more ground on a lighter bike, not the other way around. i'll just take a beating. this is a race anyways'. you'll have to match the shortcomings of a lighter bike with skill. just my 2 cents coz i have more than one bike as well each with a different feel and setup.
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Post by arcireyes on Sept 13, 2006 14:31:32 GMT 8
Caution : This thread may cause Upgraditis.
PEACE!!!!!
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Post by mountguitars on Sept 13, 2006 14:38:44 GMT 8
braking. a lot of folks prefer applying brakes at the rear. that's a big no-no. i dont need to emphasize on this one, just do it. apply brakes at the front and modulate using the rear. also, don't apply brakes on a turn. apply brakes before making the turn and once you achieve the desired speed, go ahead and make the turn. JON, please indulge my stupid question, why shouldn't you brake at the rear? hehe, let me rephrase that. "a lot of folks prefer applying brakes on the rear first instead of the front." relying for brake power on the rear can lead to rear tires skidding and it might eventually lead to crashing specially if you're at a high speed and specially if you're gonna apply brakes on a turn. skidding can be applied though in a turn using paul freeman's example (where he brakes on the rear wheel at a full stop) but that's too technical and dangerous and takes a lot of practice. the front tire provides you direction. if you want to stop the bike, your front tire must dictate first and foremost and then the rear brakes can be applied afterwards to help out (modulate). imagine your front tire is moving forward and the rear comes to a full stop. the bike could either split in half (which will never happen, hehehe) or the rear tire can either skid to its left or its right depending on the slight angle the handle bar is pointed to while the brakes on the rear are applied. but what happens if you apply the brake upfront say at fullspeed without help from the rear? its called an endo and it can easily be avoided by using the rear brakes to help the front. i dont have the scientific jargon to explain further but hope that clears something. if you want proof though how braking is important upfront, notice how some motorcycles are setup. most use diskbrakes upfront while the rear use drum brakes which are weaker. the same goes with automobiles. if its front and rear comes both with diskbrakes then consider the car outstanding. 'konting barya lang po' hehe. (my few cents)
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Post by king on Sept 13, 2006 15:16:44 GMT 8
the more precise thing to say is not to rely on just the rear brake to stop because you get more stopping power from the front. if you use just the rear, you'll stop slower. if you use just the front, you may endo, so use both at the same time, or the rear first, followed immediately by the front of you're afraid of endoing.
finally, don't ever lock your brakes, especially the front brake, because your tires have to be moving for traction and control. plus, locking the brakes drags the tire on the ground causing erosion and trail destruction.
by the way, regardless of which brake you use, braking will pitch your weight to the front of the bike, which is why you endo if you brake to quickly only with the front. less weight on the rear causes the tire to lock since there's less pressure pushing it to the ground, and hence even less stopping power. if your rear tire locks put less pressure on the brake lever and modulate it (like anti lock brakes) and lean back to put more weight on the rear tire.
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Post by radical1962 on Sept 13, 2006 15:23:17 GMT 8
It's not with the bike but with the biker. ... wala sa pana, nasa Indian!!!
I've been riding with some guys in San Mateo with steel rigid bikes and they are so much faster and technically better than me in my high zoot full suspension rig. Have your riden with Dandan? He is just using an ordinary HT but he can climb stairs and go down drops like it was nothing. And it's nothing to do with age either. I've ridden with Master Jun who is about late 40s and rides a steel bike (made by Ave I think). He can climb and descend with the teenagers and he can do it ALL DAY long. There are so many bikers out there with heavy steel bikes that are doing things that the bikers with their XTR-equipped Carbon framed bikes cannot do.
Everytime I ask them how to become a better MTBiker, all they tell me is to just keep pedalling and practicing. PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT.
Somebody actually told me, "Train with a heavier bike, it will make you stronger!" I took that advice seriously. So I would rather be stronger than have a lighter bike ... besides this is a cheaper alternative. Right, Arci? I don't want to fall prey to that sickness of "upgraditis"
Just my 2 cents ... peace!
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Post by mountguitars on Sept 13, 2006 15:30:56 GMT 8
the more precise thing to say is not to rely on just the rear brake to stop because you get more stopping power from the front. if you use just the rear, you'll stop slower. if you use just the front, you may endo, so use both at the same time, or the rear first, followed immediately by the front of you're afraid of endoing. finally, don't ever lock your brakes, especially the front brake, because your tires have to be moving for traction and control. plus, locking the brakes drags the tire on the ground causing erosion and trail destruction. by the way, regardless of which brake you use, braking will pitch your weight to the front of the bike, which is why you endo if you brake to quickly only with the front. less weight on the rear causes the tire to lock since there's less pressure pushing it to the ground, and hence even less stopping power. if your rear tire locks put less pressure on the brake lever and modulate it (like anti lock brakes) and lean back to put more weight on the rear tire. now that's a better explanation. thanks for sharing king. i also get to learn on this one. detailed and comprehensive.
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Post by mountguitars on Sept 13, 2006 15:41:52 GMT 8
It's not with the bike but with the biker. ... wala sa pana, nasa Indian!!! I've been riding with some guys in San Mateo with steel rigid bikes and they are so much faster and technically better than me in my high zoot full suspension rig. Have your riden with Dandan? He is just using an ordinary HT but he can climb stairs and go down drops like it was nothing. And it's nothing to do with age either. I've ridden with Master Jun who is about late 40s and rides a steel bike (made by Ave I think). He can climb and descend with the teenagers and he can do it ALL DAY long. There are so many bikers out there with heavy steel bikes that are doing things that the bikers with their XTR-equipped Carbon framed bikes cannot do. Everytime I ask them how to become a better MTBiker, all they tell me is to just keep pedalling and practicing. PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT. Somebody actually told me, "Train with a heavier bike, it will make you stronger!" I took that advice seriously. So I would rather be stronger than have a lighter bike ... besides this is a cheaper alternative. Right, Arci? I don't want to fall prey to that sickness of "upgraditis" Just my 2 cents ... peace! i actually saw dandan join a race in divine mercy at the foot of maarat. he lost (actually disqualified) using a high spec'd rig (merida, the works). a month after they did the same race with more sponsors in the fray. dandan joined again and he won by a comfortable lead. he used his one and only trusty steed. his rig is a bit old school. dunno the brand of the frame. he uses an old manitou fork and rimbrakes for stopping power. dandan uses clipless pedals though. this guys is pure skill. practice makes perfect. so train harder than you race. and everything will fall into place.
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Post by radical1962 on Sept 13, 2006 15:57:51 GMT 8
i actually saw dandan join a race in divine mercy at the foot of maarat. he lost (actually disqualified) using a high spec'd rig (merida, the works). a month after they did the same race with more sponsors in the fray. dandan joined again and he won by a comfortable lead. he used his one and only trusty steed. his rig is a bit old school. dunno the brand of the frame. he uses an old manitou fork and rimbrakes for stopping power. dandan uses clipless pedals though. this guys is pure skill. practice makes perfect. so train harder than you race. and everything will fall into place. That was actually Edmund's bike. I think he got a flat and was disqualified when he used a spare wheel from another biker. He should have stuck to his old bike, he was so used to it. That's the other thing... after a while you really get to be one with a bike. But it really takes a time and practice with that particular bike. Again, it's not with the song but with the singer! (I read that in this forum)
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Post by Ben Dover on Sept 13, 2006 15:58:02 GMT 8
people are afraid to use the front brake because of the fact that its powerful period. ...and if you skid the front wheel, its almost impossible to recover...i would like to believe that i use my front more than the rear...but truth be told that whenever i check my brake pads its the rears that were usually more worn than the front ...you ask me why? beats me ;D hahaha! something's wrong my bike i guess. according to pareng sheldon b....dont forget the role of your arms...stiffen/brace them a during heavy breaking (in case you need to)..if the traction is good, using the front brake will definitely stop the bike but not always the rider ;D ...naaalala ko ito lagi but unfortunately always split seconds late...nakakalat na ako.
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Post by radical1962 on Sept 13, 2006 16:07:46 GMT 8
people are afraid to use the front brake because of the fact that its powerful period. ...and if you skid the front wheel, its almost impossible to recover...i would like to believe that i use my front more than the rear...but truth be told that whenever i check my brake pads its the rears that were usually more worn than the front ...you ask me why? beats me ;D hahaha! something's wrong my bike i guess. according to pareng sheldon b....dont forget the role of your arms...stiffen/brace them a during heavy breaking (in case you need to)..if the traction is good, using the front brake will definitely stop the bike but not always the rider ;D ...naaalala ko ito lagi but unfortunately always split seconds late...nakakalat na ako. I second that!!! I finished off my rear dics rotors before my front. I also try hard to use the front for braking but I find myself using the rear to slowdown for those long descents. I tend to think that I am modulating the rear for control ... go figure. I try to use both of the front and rear brakes for riding singletrack. Actually like you, I just avoid braking during rough descents to avoid endoing or skidding the front wheel. But what the heck?! Let's just ride!
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Post by Ben Dover on Sept 13, 2006 16:10:03 GMT 8
regarding bike and rider...i believe its the combination of both...otherwise lets just give our athletes the cheapest mall bikes we can find...proper training and proper equipment...who knows hangang saan pa si dandan if given a high end and finely tuned bike...lance said something about it know but given the level of equipment that all the teams in TDF had, pare-pareho na lang yan...so it becomes the drugs este! the rider hehehe! just my probably worthless opinion.
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Post by Ben Dover on Sept 13, 2006 16:27:29 GMT 8
bobet, i have a theory on why the rear pads wear out first...am not sure if it will hold though...i think we are using the front and rear brakes correctly naman...that is balancing the uneven power of the front and rear brakes...but since the rear is inherently weak (not as effective), it takes more time for the rear brake to achieve what we want it to do thus mas madali syang maupod..plus the fact that when the traction is poor we tend to (and i think we should) use the rear more often. anyway, its just my theory.
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Post by marcs on Sept 13, 2006 16:58:26 GMT 8
i actually saw dandan join a race in divine mercy at the foot of maarat. he lost (actually disqualified) using a high spec'd rig (merida, the works). a month after they did the same race with more sponsors in the fray. dandan joined again and he won by a comfortable lead. he used his one and only trusty steed. his rig is a bit old school. dunno the brand of the frame. he uses an old manitou fork and rimbrakes for stopping power. dandan uses clipless pedals though. this guys is pure skill. practice makes perfect. so train harder than you race. and everything will fall into place. That was actually Edmund's bike. I think he got a flat and was disqualified when he used a spare wheel from another biker. He should have stuck to his old bike, he was so used to it. That's the other thing... after a while you really get to be one with a bike. But it really takes a time and practice with that particular bike. Again, it's not with the song but with the singer! (I read that in this forum) just to add, I think at that performance level bike setup really makes a big difference. i remember an article about bike fitting in MBAction. Forgot who the rider was, pero the bike fit session resulted in him having to extend his stem by . . . 5 mms. The rider agreed to do it, BUT gradually over a period of time. 5 mms!
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Post by marcs on Sept 13, 2006 17:15:41 GMT 8
regarding bike and rider...i believe its the combination of both...otherwise lets just give our athletes the cheapest mall bikes we can find...proper training and proper equipment...who knows hangang saan pa si dandan if given a high end and finely tuned bike...lance said something about it know but given the level of equipment that all the teams in TDF had, pare-pareho na lang yan...so it becomes the drugs este! the rider hehehe! just my probably worthless opinion. mathematically speaking, I think the correlation between rider and biker is a logarithmic pattern mwhehehehehehe seriously, I think they go together. but i think higher-end components will only impact your performance if you have the capacity to push it. put another way, if an average rider were to upgrade from say, an Acera to a Deore, maybe he'll be a bit faster. from Deore to XTR, maybe no more impact. But in the hands of say, a Tolits, then that XTR will translate to maybe 5 seconds less in a race. And that's what those performance parts are all about anyway. Durability or shaving grams to shave off a few measly seconds . . . a few seconds which of course could translate to a podium finish in an intense race.
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Post by whoopi on Sept 14, 2006 10:15:44 GMT 8
ah i see, thanks for the explanations ;D
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Post by mountguitars on Sept 22, 2006 0:28:32 GMT 8
It's not with the bike but with the biker. ... wala sa pana, nasa Indian!!! I've been riding with some guys in San Mateo with steel rigid bikes and they are so much faster and technically better than me in my high zoot full suspension rig. Have your riden with Dandan? He is just using an ordinary HT but he can climb stairs and go down drops like it was nothing. And it's nothing to do with age either. I've ridden with Master Jun who is about late 40s and rides a steel bike (made by Ave I think). He can climb and descend with the teenagers and he can do it ALL DAY long. There are so many bikers out there with heavy steel bikes that are doing things that the bikers with their XTR-equipped Carbon framed bikes cannot do. Everytime I ask them how to become a better MTBiker, all they tell me is to just keep pedalling and practicing. PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT. Somebody actually told me, "Train with a heavier bike, it will make you stronger!" I took that advice seriously. So I would rather be stronger than have a lighter bike ... besides this is a cheaper alternative. Right, Arci? I don't want to fall prey to that sickness of "upgraditis" Just my 2 cents ... peace! this post inspired me so instead of going lighter, i did the opposite. i installed diskbrakes on my HT (gained weight of about 400grams) and switched to specialized tires (fast tracks and roll-x, gained weight of about 280 grams). i also slapped a marzocchi EXR race fork instead of my RS pilot (gained weight of about 250 grams) approximately gained weight of about 930 grams. handling improved specially on the downhills and cornering but on flats and uphills you really need to exert more effort. i guess its about time i lessened my bike buddies' handicap, hehe. ;D
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Post by jake on Sept 25, 2006 17:32:31 GMT 8
what good XC fork can i get for the price of 3.5k? and where can i find it?
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Post by Superbad on Sept 25, 2006 19:53:43 GMT 8
what good XC fork can i get for the price of 3.5k? and where can i find it? add 1k to 1.5k and look for a 2nd hand marz exr pro (people sell it for 5k). that was my first fork...perfect for XC. the downside is that it's a bit heavy. but you gotta spend more (a lot) if you want to go light.
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Post by king on Sept 25, 2006 21:36:49 GMT 8
raul's latest tip: "spend over your P80k budget for a bike..." what good XC fork can i get for the price of 3.5k? and where can i find it? add 1k to 1.5k and look for a 2nd hand marz exr pro (people sell it for 5k). that was my first fork...perfect for XC. the downside is that it's a bit heavy. but you gotta spend more (a lot) if you want to go light.
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Post by Superbad on Sept 25, 2006 22:23:30 GMT 8
raul's latest tip: "spend over your P80k budget for a bike..." add 1k to 1.5k and look for a 2nd hand marz exr pro (people sell it for 5k). that was my first fork...perfect for XC. the downside is that it's a bit heavy. but you gotta spend more (a lot) if you want to go light. king, shhhh! quiet ka lang! hahaha....i didn't go over my budget!
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Post by lucban on Sept 26, 2006 9:22:14 GMT 8
For a XC cyclist, the first thing and the most important to do is to build you aerobic foundation using heart rate zone/HR monitor in increasing the intensity and duration of training.Check CTS/Carmichael training system, this is the training use by Lance A. and most successful XC cyclist.Skills like right way to brake will follow or you'll improve it while you're riding.XC race depends on your aerobic power and race tactics .Ride safe,run/carry your bike on "undo-able" part of the trail like rock garden and attack on climbing part of the trail.Just imagine how strong you are in a typical 1 mile of climbing with an ave. heart rate of 60 to 70% while others are on their 90's.A XC carbon bike with full XTR parts is good if the rider is also a XTR in skills and endurance.So XC biking is aerobic power my Friend.
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Post by kanto on Oct 11, 2006 12:39:35 GMT 8
whats an xc?
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Post by Ben Dover on Oct 11, 2006 13:07:14 GMT 8
Cross(X) Country ma'am...but for me it means X-tra Careful
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Post by Dragunov on Oct 11, 2006 17:52:50 GMT 8
lightest body weight for your height(like tolits ,freeman and jon ), crosstraining like swimming and running will help(para di ka magsawa sa bike mo ;D), adequately light bike(u dont need xtr to win or do good on a race )
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Post by janix on Oct 11, 2006 17:55:29 GMT 8
raul's latest tip: "spend over your P80k budget for a bike..." king, shhhh! quiet ka lang! hahaha....i didn't go over my budget! ouch on my pocket.
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Post by Dragunov on Oct 11, 2006 18:02:30 GMT 8
Endurance enhancing drug!!!!! the name says it all!!!!! if u need one, you know who to go to ;D
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§ Ö L Ø ƒ L ¡ g h † ™
Free Rider
"Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride." - John F. Kennedy
Posts: 320
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Post by § Ö L Ø ƒ L ¡ g h † ™ on Oct 12, 2006 11:15:34 GMT 8
Me too im confused ! ! ! dunno where i am into ----> Hardtail XC bike, Hardtail Race Specific XC bike, Aggressive HT XC bike, FS XC bike, FS Race Specific XC bike, Aggressive FS XC bike... or what......hahahahaha!!! For me, i love road ( long winding road..) ..... any infos? Thanks....... Saluti ! ! !
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