|
Post by iamsheila on Jun 27, 2017 14:02:51 GMT 8
Hi mga Sir! Just wanna ask ano pong better Frame para sa bike ko? Planning to replace the old one (Next brand) file:///H:/P_20170604_153108.jpg Thank you po!
|
|
|
Post by anthrax76 on Jun 27, 2017 16:47:20 GMT 8
Next is an entry level bike. may list ka ba ng components?
btw, dehins ka pwedeng mag-attach ng pictures direct from the hard drive, he he. Pero ang alam ko may uploader na itong site eh.
|
|
|
Post by konablack on Jun 28, 2017 13:04:19 GMT 8
Any reasons why you want to upgrade your old frame? I'd usually replace an old frame if I find a good deal (cheap frame for sale). Or if my old frame is already outdated, new frames have internal cable routing, or 27.5, or 29er, full suspension etc.. Or the plain reason why we want to upgrade, shift to a known brand like Specialized, Giant, Dabomb, etc.
|
|
|
Post by anarki on Aug 7, 2017 10:38:07 GMT 8
pa-ride ako dito sa thread na to mga sirs para di nako magcreate ng thread. may nabasa kasi akong post nung nakaraan (matagal nakong lurker sorry) about ideal frame specs, and since balak ko rin bumuo ng bike. need ko lang ng expert opinion about this, and a possible explanation narin
1. threaded bb vs press fit 2. tapered or non-tapered frame and why 3. ta vs qr, front and rear 4. seatpost diameter 5. boost vs non-boost? 6. cable routing (internal vs external)
and based on the options, may maire-recommend po ba kayong size 15" na ht frame under 10k or kelangan ko mag ipon pa? planning to build by xmas or 1q 2018. Thank you!
|
|
|
Post by konablack on Aug 7, 2017 11:36:37 GMT 8
imma answer some of the items you mentioned: 2. tapered or non-tapered frame - i think this was a major update on frame and fork technology. old frames are non-tapered while new ones are tapered. choosing your prefered spec would mainly depend on other components such as the fork (tapared or non) 3. thru axle vs quick release - if you're going to do hard core stuff (heavy DH), it is recommended to have a thru axle setup (this is also expensive), while the quick release setup are more suited for XC 4. seatpost diameter depends mostly on the frame; full suspension frames usually have 31.8 or bigger seatpost diameter; hardtails usually have 27.2 6. cable routing - if you want to have a clean-looking bike, go for internal routing, this is also available with some select new frames please correct me if i am wrong on the stuff i mentioned as for your frame, you might have limited options based on your budget, why not consider 2nd hand frames? Just my opinion
|
|
|
Post by anarki on Aug 7, 2017 11:40:43 GMT 8
I've no qualms about 2nd hand parts as long as they don't look like world war survivors. What frame specs do you suggest I look out for? I'm inspired by the xc project I saw here recently and I want to build my 2nd bike so I can give the first one to my lil sis... 80/20 pavement/trail (I just want my bike to be trail prepared). kahit ht lang muna then I can save up for fs if I really end up engaging trails more.
|
|
|
Post by konablack on Aug 7, 2017 11:46:58 GMT 8
do you already have the other parts? like fork, drivetrain, and wheels? if you have them then compatibility will be your main concern
|
|
|
Post by anarki on Aug 7, 2017 11:57:13 GMT 8
none yet. planning stage still. planning for a 27.5er. Actually I'd like to have the Cannondale Trail 6 (because of the matte black frame and geometry) but I don't think they sell the frames separately. one of the main reasons I read here more frequently than the fb group is because people here have a more professional feel(LOL) and I don't think the trend there is healthy (tuhod boys and tunog mayaman hubs) which actually made me more confused about the hubs that I need.
|
|
|
Post by simplej0ys on Aug 7, 2017 13:16:28 GMT 8
- go get a frame that's got a tapered headset and a threaded BB already that's a good baseline and foundation to work from. preference mo na lang kung gusto mo ng internally routed cables or not. - boost? IDK kung may makukuhanan ka na boosted frame (148x12 rear dropouts) pero kung mostly sa kalye ka lalarga, kahit dehins boosted go. - gawa ka ng sarili mong thread at mag post ka dun ng progression ng build mo
|
|
|
NEW FRAME
Aug 7, 2017 18:57:23 GMT 8
via mobile
Post by anarki on Aug 7, 2017 18:57:23 GMT 8
I plan on doing that. Nag inquire lang ako dito para yung mga future na maghahanap dn ng frame isang thread na lang ang titignan. Once may specific frame nako in mind, saka ako magtatanong for other parts. Thank you!
|
|
|
Post by esulit on Aug 7, 2017 20:21:22 GMT 8
Ideally,
1) threaded BB 2) tapered headset. It's stronger. And newer forks are mostly tapered now. 3) QR is easier to take out but TA is safer. Of course if you always check your QR, then you are good. TA is also for more rowdy riding like DH.
4) Seatpost diameter - I'd prefer 30.8 or 31.6 mainly because I like to have a dropper post on my bike. 27.2 has limited options and the travel is limited to 100mm. I prefer to have 150mm of travel to really get that seat out of the way.
5) Internal cable routing is cleaner but check your frame if there are tube guides for the internal cables. It makes it easier to route. Otherwise, it is easier to maintain external routed cables.
6. Boost spacing yields a stiffer wheel specially if it's 29. You also need boost clearance for plus tires if you plan to go that route. It's better to go boost since that is the emerging new standard. Although at the moment most of the locally sold hubs are non boost. But that can change pretty soon.
I wrote ideally because building a bike is all about compromises between spec, weight, price, availability, brand reputation. So I am trying not to go crazy over it and just get it done as soon as possible so I can ride it already.
I'm also building a bike right now and can't even get past the wheelset decision. Decisions decisions.
|
|
|
Post by anarki on Aug 7, 2017 21:23:01 GMT 8
Thanks for the input esulit! Good thing I have until next year's first quarter to decide. It's confusing but fun hahaha
|
|