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Post by gilbs72 on Mar 24, 2006 1:18:46 GMT 8
Sirs, what's a decent single-speed crankset that doesn't cost too much (value-for-money)? Priority on 'reliability' sana.
Will converted triple-ring cranksets be okay or are there dedicated single-speed chainrings that will perform better?
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P-jhay
Free Rider
~ Shred Lang Ng Shred ~
Posts: 342
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Post by P-jhay on Mar 24, 2006 2:15:29 GMT 8
hey man.. well first i dont have any idea about topic here jsut saw your avatar haha so cool man!! LOL
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Post by wcoastbo on Mar 24, 2006 6:53:31 GMT 8
no need to buy a SS specific crankset, unless you want to spend money. Most of mine are converted triples or doubles.
remove the granny gear and associated hardware. remove big ring and put a bashguard in its place. or you can get shorter bolts and eliminate the bashguard. I use BMX chainring bolts. or you can get washers to replace the big ring.
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Post by gilbs72 on Mar 26, 2006 7:48:43 GMT 8
Thanks sir westcoastbo. Will keep these tips when I build my SS. What are the unique features of an SS chainwheel? I suppose the "pins and ramps" that facilitate smooth shifting will be gone. Does this leave a more "solid" chainwheel suitable for the stronger non-gear-assisted SS pedalling? Bros in RP, what kind of price are we looking at for a non-premium but decent SS crankset? Which ones are highly recommended? Thanks brad P-jhay for the avatar praise... just ripped it off the net.
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Post by wcoastbo on Mar 27, 2006 14:25:24 GMT 8
What are the unique features of an SS chainwheel? I suppose the "pins and ramps" that facilitate smooth shifting will be gone. Does this leave a more "solid" chainwheel suitable for the stronger non-gear-assisted SS pedalling? I've used both SS specific chainrings and those w/ramps & pins on my SS. Strength was never an issue for my weak legs, I just didn't want to pay more for the ramps & pins that would never be used. Also, SS chainrings & cogs have taller teeth and it's harder to drop a chain. The most useful way to spend your hard earned money is to buy a SS specific cog. It's very easy to drop your chain with a geared cog when using a tensioner. even with my tensioner as tight as possible, I still dropped the chain on bumpy trails.
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Post by 32by18 on Mar 30, 2006 21:50:03 GMT 8
hi gilbs
bo's got a ton of good tips - you can check out the forums here and score a second hand crankset. I've been running a second hand Deore (square taper even) ever since. I initially used the stock rings but as bo said, you can invest in getting a non-ramped chainring to get more chain wrap. ditto with the rear cogs.
If you need any help, give us a holler!
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Post by OnebyOne on May 5, 2006 3:10:38 GMT 8
How about something like this;
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Post by gilbs72 on Oct 11, 2006 1:42:15 GMT 8
Unable to find a suitable yet affordable 32T SS-specific crankset, I went and bought a 44T crankset--170mm cranks, 5-arm spider, 110mm BCD, says "Redline" but not sure if real-- P500. Apparently this is designed for BMX bikes with square-taper BBs. Any suggestions for a lightweight 32T (or 34T) 5-bolt, 110mm BCD replacement chainring for minimum possible cost? Kindly post where I can get one and for how much. Also curious about 170mm cranks--if the difference will be noticeable vs my geared 175mm crankset. For now, I got a 24T freewheel (SR Suntour) to pair with the 44T chainring as a tempo setup to achieve roughly the same ratios. Are there such a things as low-cost flip-flop hubs available locally? Thanks!
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Post by OnebyOne on Oct 11, 2006 11:11:21 GMT 8
longers cranks are the prefered choice of most single speed to due greater leverage ratio... For me, I used both 175mm on my geared and singlespeed bikes... I guess, going shorter than what you use to is not a good choice for singlespeeding...IMO
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