|
Post by mountguitars on Apr 18, 2006 5:53:23 GMT 8
thanks jibber. its really a big help. what or how did you cut the spacers? thanks.
i guess the closest handyman here in sta rosa would be the one waltermart.
|
|
|
Post by jibber on Apr 18, 2006 7:19:41 GMT 8
jibber - dropping the chain is a problem when using a tensioner and a cog designed for shifting. try and find a cog with taller teeth. a shimano compatible bmx cog will keep the chain from falling off when you jump. king - do you have any leftover bmx cogs? another option is to use two old wornout cogs as an "anti-derail" guard. just grind off the teeth and add a thin spacer on each side of your cog so the chain doesn't rub on the guard. see post #22... forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=69863&highlightThanks for the tips wcoastbo...i'll keep these in mind in fine-tuning my setup Btw, my problem is at the chainwheel area....this is where the chain jumps off when I try to do some jumps...no problemo sa cog. This is why I'm planning to remove the RD and replace it with a tensioner nearer to the chainwheel I tried to adjust the RD to maximize tension and replaced the old chain with a new one. I haven't tried the jumps but so far, when I lift the bike two feet high and drop it...the chain stays in place...maybe it's just the old chain Thanks!
|
|
|
Post by jibber on Apr 18, 2006 7:31:09 GMT 8
thanks jibber. its really a big help. what or how did you cut the spacers? thanks. i guess the closest handyman here in sta rosa would be the one waltermart. Ey mountguitars...to cut the spacers...i used a triangular file, you can also use a hacksaw. Make a cut 1/3 of the way (i'm referring to thickness) one side and another 1/3 of the way on the other side. Then take a plier and bend the washer at the cut portion back & forth a few times to finalize the cut. Use the file to smoothen the edge of the cut washer. You can try to cut the washer all the way using the file or hacksaw...but it seemed to take forever ;D Yes, i got my washers at handyman waltermart...my home is just a few pedals away from the place
|
|
|
Post by mcvarki on Apr 18, 2006 11:44:37 GMT 8
you can actually buy shorter chainring bolts from bikeshops. I got black anodized aluminum ones from Trixx
|
|
|
Post by jibber on Apr 18, 2006 12:25:56 GMT 8
you can actually buy shorter chainring bolts from bikeshops. I got black anodized aluminum ones from Trixx Yup...it should be the best way...I'm actually looking for blue colored ones since I want to transfer the SS setup to my gtavalanche...nagmadali kasi eh...can't wait to go singlespeedin' ;D Kamusta Matt? It's been years since we last made padyak together
|
|
|
Post by mcvarki on Apr 18, 2006 22:32:50 GMT 8
ey jeever, how are you doing buddy? yup, havn't ridden sta rosa in a while, but we plan to again soon. hope to bump into you if we do ride safe!
|
|
|
Post by skarhed on Apr 19, 2006 3:51:22 GMT 8
I see the single speed fever is catching on! 1FG!
|
|
|
Post by g.b.b on Apr 19, 2006 6:35:40 GMT 8
OT: lets have a small group of SS rider here and lets sched a ride.....post your suggestions in "FUN RIDES" section. i already started the thread.
|
|
|
Post by jibber on Apr 19, 2006 7:02:16 GMT 8
ey jeever, how are you doing buddy? yup, havn't ridden sta rosa in a while, but we plan to again soon. hope to bump into you if we do ride safe! ...been hibernating also for quite some time...see ya here
|
|
|
Post by king on Apr 19, 2006 10:00:57 GMT 8
hey bo. yup, there are still a few cogs left- two 14T and one 16T cogs (my old one on my road bike that i replaced with the 18). i've kept the 20 for myself hehe. jibber - dropping the chain is a problem when using a tensioner and a cog designed for shifting. try and find a cog with taller teeth. a shimano compatible bmx cog will keep the chain from falling off when you jump. king - do you have any leftover bmx cogs? another option is to use two old wornout cogs as an "anti-derail" guard. just grind off the teeth and add a thin spacer on each side of your cog so the chain doesn't rub on the guard. see post #22... forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=69863&highlight
|
|
|
Post by jibber on Apr 22, 2006 19:56:17 GMT 8
I was able to fine-tune the RD for maximum tension...rode the SS at mount makiling today...it felt raw maneuvering the rocky trails with steep climbs...it felt good ;D...and I no longer encountered the chain jumping off the chainwheel on my way down I remembered the first time I climb that trail in 2003 with the granny and largest cog of an 8-speed...it was hell But today climbing the same with a 32X17 gear ratio...it felt like I'm on my way to heaven. SS rules!!!
|
|
|
Post by 32by18 on Apr 22, 2006 21:05:19 GMT 8
right on jeeves!!!!
|
|
boyet
Free Rider
Posts: 309
|
Post by boyet on Apr 25, 2006 19:40:24 GMT 8
Well SS guys, ask ko lang if SS bikes can be fitted with disc brake? front and rear. Did anybody have seen one? Thanks
|
|
|
Post by jr on Apr 25, 2006 21:21:43 GMT 8
Well SS guys, ask ko lang if SS bikes can be fitted with disc brake? front and rear. Did anybody have seen one? Thanks Yes..Bo aka Wcoastbo. Actually If the frame have the disc mount. You should be able to install. Its just a regular bike .
|
|
|
Post by joes on Apr 26, 2006 22:36:43 GMT 8
my SS. 32T x 18T. bad photo angle.
|
|
|
Post by extraFunky on May 4, 2006 23:57:22 GMT 8
"Funky Monkey (kumain ng saging) Funky Monkey (sumabit sa baging) ..."
|
|
|
Post by OnebyOne on May 5, 2006 0:11:15 GMT 8
Nice Monkey you got there brad...
|
|
|
Post by wcoastbo on May 5, 2006 0:57:32 GMT 8
that's a sweet 29er bxc!
give us a report on your h-bars. do the different hand positions help you on certain terrain? what's the bar width? no rise, but a lot of sweep... how does that translate to power climbs and technical descents? I've been thinking about getting the same bar. btw I like the Brooks, nice touch.
thanks for your input.
|
|
|
Post by OnebyOne on May 5, 2006 2:16:00 GMT 8
my SS. 32T x 18T. bad photo angle. Hey Joes, is that a steel CR8
|
|
|
Post by extraFunky on May 5, 2006 3:27:02 GMT 8
that's a sweet 29er bxc! give us a report on your h-bars. do the different hand positions help you on certain terrain? what's the bar width? no rise, but a lot of sweep... how does that translate to power climbs and technical descents? I've been thinking about getting the same bar. btw I like the Brooks, nice touch. thanks for your input. I never really got to use the front extensions (curved) very often. I guess, it's good for long smooth rides. Most of the time, my grip is in the rear extensions, close to the center tube. It gives me a more natural hand position so there's no numbness or wrist pains. I could also pull the bars more naturally when grinding out standing climbs. IMO, it's also a lot more stable on very tight turns than traditional bars. On downhills and technical rocky sections, I often get my hands further back down the rear extensions. This way I can slide my butt way back behind the saddle to shift weight. It also has better control in the rock gardens. Being Ti helps a lot with riding rigid. I've been using the H-Bar on my Blur for some time before I moved it to the Monkey. I can't afford another Jones so I've got the Mary bar for the Blur. The ride feel is different but you get the same hand position advantages since it has about the same sweep as the Jones. I'll never go back to traditional bars.
|
|
|
Post by OnebyOne on May 5, 2006 3:32:20 GMT 8
How much does that Mary bar cost compare to the Jones H-bar? I'm interested to get one of those for my rigid 1x1...
|
|
|
Post by extraFunky on May 5, 2006 3:39:04 GMT 8
|
|
|
Post by OnebyOne on May 5, 2006 3:44:05 GMT 8
Thanks BXC...
|
|
|
Post by wcoastbo on May 5, 2006 4:53:48 GMT 8
thanks bxc. that's a good write-up and now understand why the h-bars are so well liked. I was wondering about the advantages of having that much sweep... I like the fact that they help you get behind the seat for the steep sections. Now all I have to do is find a good price on them. Where'd you get yours?
|
|
|
Post by extraFunky on May 5, 2006 10:39:21 GMT 8
|
|
|
Post by mountguitars on May 5, 2006 21:25:32 GMT 8
nice rigs guys. i just can't help but smile at how them drivetrains look so simple on an SS.
got my rig assembled last monday (may 1). but unfortunately there's something wrong with how the tensioner was setup. may suking mechanic, unfortunately, isn't familiar with the tensioners i'm using (my tensioner looks the same with neil's and gbb's). i hope i can post pics soon once she's up and running. i'll just post the specs for the mean time, hehe.
32X18 configuration
frame = KHS alite 500 '06 (anodized suweeeet red) crank = deore '03 (32) fork = RS pilot XC '04 pedals = M520 (was supposed to go for M540's but they're hard to come by and i couldn't wait much longer) seat post = generic saddle = specialized (name got erased by my butt, i forgot the name. its made of manganese and kevlar though and weighs at 250grams, hehe) rims = safety line (rigida) stem = mo*do*lo 100mm, 10 degree rise handle bar = scud (with rise) (says 170grams but on my weighing scale it says 240grams, duh?!) grips = generic GT grips spokes = generic stainless steel with short nipples tires = kenda karma 2.0 (rear), kenda kozmik lite 1.95 (front) converter and tensioner = da bomb (18) brakes = deore v-brakes levers = Avid FR 5? (tama ba?)
pics to follow.
|
|
|
Post by joes on May 5, 2006 21:56:43 GMT 8
@ onebyone - sir it's a da bomb grenade.
|
|
|
Post by OnebyOne on May 5, 2006 22:31:13 GMT 8
@ onebyone - sir it's a da bomb grenade. I got a CR8 steel frame kasi very similar to that eh...
|
|
|
Post by joes on May 5, 2006 22:32:18 GMT 8
chromo rin yung grenade. medyo mabigat. hehehe. that's why i went the SS way. or as you guys call it 1FG.
|
|
|
Post by wcoastbo on May 6, 2006 0:31:06 GMT 8
holy cr@p that's expensive! now I remember why I haven't bought an h-bar yet. I'm too cheap! I better start saving my $$$ and start checking e-bay.
|
|